Settlement of the Island
When this
island was discovered by Europeans, it was, as before stated,
entirely covered with a dense forest of hardwood trees. The
trees of this primitive forest attained great size, as was shown
by the enormous stumps found throughout the forest by the older
inhabitants. This luxuriant growth was, no doubt, due to the
large amount of foliage decaying, thus fertilizing the soil.
After the first growth was cut off, the land was burned over.
This was injurious to the soil where it covered rocky land, and
much of its richness was washed into the valleys and thence into
the ocean. The next growth on this impoverished soil was much
smaller. This can be remembered by many of the older
inhabitants.
When this
forest was, in turn, cleared, its place was taken by a stunted
growth of spruce and fir trees, which now covers a part of the
island. The first forest is what attracted the attention of the
people from the more populated districts. Lumber was then in
great demand to meet the wants of the growing towns and villages
along the coast; and to meet these wants. Swan erected a sawmill
to manufacture the lumber. This wood also found a ready market
as fuel, it being before coal came into use; and although it
brought but a small price, often selling for fifty cents per
cord on the bank, yet it grew so abundantly near the shore that
fair wages could be made. It was the chief employment of the men
during the winter months.
At an early
date quite a colony of Irishmen completely cut off the wood from
that part of the island since called Irish Point, this giving to
it the name.
After Swan's
purchase, his first work was to build a dam across the millpond
and erect his mills. The location was on either side of the
little island, near where the lobster factory was afterwards
built. He built a sawmill over the stream on one side of the
island, and a gristmill on the other. He then built a large
mansion which he proceeded to finish up in excellent style. This
house was built in colonial style of architecture, the roof
being almost flat. This was called by the settlers the "Big
House". It was located near the shores of Old Harbor, below
where Harvey Bridges now lives.
The state of
Massachusetts agreed to exempt Swan's property from taxation for
a period of twenty years, provided he settled, within seven
years, twenty-two Protestant families on the island, built or
caused to be built twenty-two houses at least twenty-two feet
square, and built a church and schoolhouse and established a
grammar school.
In order to
get the required number of settlers. Swan sent out to the
surrounding towns that he would give one hundred acres of land
to any settler who would bring his family, build a house,
cultivate the land, and that, at the end of seven years, he
would give him a deed, free of expense, for the land which he
had so improved.
Quite a
number of families came from Deer Isle, Sedgwick, Mount Desert
and other places. There was a great demand for laborers. Many
found employment at the mills. A large number chopped logs in
the forest, others with ox teams drew them to the mill where
they were manufactured into lumber. Many coasters from other
places came to take the lumber to market, and Old Harbor took on
a lively aspect.
Some of the
early settlers made their first visit here in one of these
coasting vessels. In the meantime the fishery business began to
be developed. But few were employed in this industry at first,
for other occupations were more lucrative. In after years,
however, the fishery business came to be the chief employment of
the whole town. The church and schoolhouse were never built, as
Swan, soon after his purchase here, failed in business and left
this country before it could be carried into effect, and those
into whose hands the property fell did not choose to fulfill
Swan's agreement.
Swan had as a
confidential agent a man named Joseph Prince, of Beverly,
Massachusetts. He came here soon after the purchase of the
islands and superintended Swan's business during the early days
of their settlement. Prince received $500 a year and his family
supported. He settled on Harbor Island and built a house near
the cove which still bears his name. Hancock registry, volume 5,
page 481, gives the following account, dated February 28, 1798:
James Swan, of Dorchester, appointed Joseph Prince resident on
Swan's Island, formerly Burntcoat (this is the first time that
the phrase Swan's Island was used), with power of attorney to
sell and convey to David Smith, Joshua Grindle and Moses Staples
one hundred acres of land each; to John Rich, William Davis,
David Bickmore, Isaac Sawyer, and Knowlton thirty acres each,
all to be taken on the Great Island; and to Samuel Emerson sixty
acres on Marshall's Island, and to any other fisherman, who owns
his fishing boat and who may settle on the Great Island, ten
acres. To be theirs on the following conditions only: They shall
live on said land seven years, counting from their actual
settlement, with their stock and families; shall pay all the
taxes assessed by the town, State or general government; they
shall cut no more wood or timber than to make good and farmer
like improvements; shall pay the expense of surveying; each
shall lay out such roads through his land as the agent shall
direct, and keep it in repair seven years.
As far as the
case may admit, the cord wood and lumber cut upon these lands
shall be carried to market in vessels belonging to Swan or his
heirs. In like manner the logs felled on this land shall be
carried to the mills erected or to be erected on said island. If
the above conditions are not complied with, the land that may be
improved by settlers will go back to said Swan. This was
acknowledged in Boston before John Vinal.
Soon after
the year 1800, Prince moved back to Beverly. His widow was
living there as late as 1841, a very aged lady. They have many
descendants now living in Beverly and Salem. After Prince's
departure. Swan's business was transacted by different parties,
as will be noted later. Swan's property was now neglected. The
mills, which still ran for many years, were finally closed and
gradually fell into decay.
The land was
held as of very little value after the timber had been cut off,
and settlers who came in made their own selection of lots
without consulting anyone. The first permanent settlement was
made by David Smith in 1791 He settled on Harbor Island, where
his daughter Sarah, afterwards the wife of Benjamin Stinson, was
born in 1792. He soon after moved into the "Big House" while
building his own, and while there, his son Benjamin Smith was
born in 1795. This is said to be the first child born to white
parents on the island.
The "Big
House" was used as a temporary dwelling by many of the early
settlers until a suitable house of their own could be procured.
Although there were sawmills here, most of the first houses were
built of logs. The crevices were plastered with mortar made from
burnt clam shells. These were found in large quantities, and
made a good substitute for lime. Moses Staples made considerable
quantity in this way when he lived near Old Harbor.
The log
houses were small, generally twenty-two feet square; the lower
part was all in one room called the "kitchen". This was used as
a cook room, dining room, sitting room, storeroom and general
workshop. It was the family "home", and very often here large
families were reared. The largest of which we have record is
David Smith's, before spoken of, who by his first wife had
sixteen children, and by his second wife eight, making
twenty-four in all.
In the
kitchen was a broad fireplace wherein swung a large crane. Upon
the crane were pendant hooks of various lengths, upon which the
pots and kettles were hung. There was a wide, neatly swept
hearth, upon which, before a roaring fire, the bright tin baker
was placed to bake the bread or roast the lamb. When a bannock
was to be baked, the dough of cornmeal and water was spread
about an inch thick upon a piece of sheet iron about eight by
eighteen inches and placed upon the hearth edge and a flatiron
at its back to keep it up. When its face side was cooked which,
with a winter fire, required only a few minutes, it was removed
from the iron, turned inside out and again presented to the fire
for a few minutes. That gave it a hard, brittle crust on both
sides. These bannocks of corn or barley were the only bread
used. Wheat flour was very expensive, and could be used only by
the more wealthy.
At the side
of the fireplace, and quite near thereto, was a cavernous oven
which each Saturday was heated very hot, where the Sunday's
beans and brown bread and pumpkin pies, or a quarter of lamb
were baked. Under the oven was the stockhole, with a capacity of
several barrels, into which the ashes from the hearth were
shoveled.
In autumn,
after the harvest had been gathered and the house banked and all
cracks and crannies about the house and barn where Jack Frost
might come in were properly tightened to keep him out, it was
the correct thing to lay in a supply of pitch wood for winter
evenings' light.
The furniture
was of the simplest description. Spinning wheels and looms
manufactured the wool into cloth which served largely to clothe
the family.
During the
long, bleak winters, shut off from all communication with the
main land, except an occasional sailboat, with the waves of the
Atlantic Ocean beating all around them, it must, indeed, have
seemed isolated. But it was not so regarded by them. The little
log house was built in a sheltered spot in the forest. The
sturdy settler, to support his large family, was kept busy
throughout the day. In the evening the family gathered before
the fire in the huge fireplace, whose genial warmth gave a
cheery aspect to the little cabin. During the evening friends
would come with their family hauled by oxen, perhaps for several
miles. The younger members would entertain themselves by
coasting or skating or by games within doors, while with the
parents storytelling seems to have been a favorite mode of
entertainment, in which a ghost or a goblin would figure as the
hero of the tale. A generous supper would be partaken of before
they left for their long ride homeward. Notwithstanding the
great improvements that have taken place within the last
century, I doubt if people enjoy themselves now more than they
did at that time. An increase of means brings with it one of
wants, and usually the expenditures will keep pace with the
income.
Many of the
more prosperous soon built timber houses, some of large
dimensions. Most of the houses were built near the shore so as
to be convenient for fishing, which, since the departure of
Swan's agents, had been their chief reliance for the support of
their families. The first work of the settler, after providing
for his family, was to procure a boat. These were of small size
at first, as an abundance of fish could be caught near the
shore, but after a time larger boats and vessels were built, not
only for home use but also to sell. Land was cleared around the
house and barley, corn and potatoes were raised. Barley and corn
were ground at the gristmill and made into bread.
Although
farming was never carried on to any great extent, crops were
good. It is said that some of the farmers raised a thousand
bushels of potatoes per year.
A large
amount of kiln wood was sold during the winter months. At first
this wood could be cut anywhere except on land actually settled.
Later the plantation required a small price per cord on all wood
cut on wild lands. Fish were plenty, but they brought a small
price. Yet they served as an article of food, and were exchanged
for corn, barley, and articles of clothing. Shoes of a rude kind
were made at home. The settlers at once stocked their places
with cattle and sheep, the latter being more profitable on
account of the dry, hilly pastureland.
There were no
roads, only paths through the woods. If anyone wished the use of
a road he had to build it himself. On account of the rocky
character of the land through which roads must pass, they
preferred, when visiting another part of the island, to go in
boats, rather than incur the heavy expense necessary to
construct roads. Later, paths were converted into wood roads,
and these at a much later date into highways, all of which had
gates across them. No horses were kept for seventy years after
the settlement of the town. But the roads at this writing have
vastly improved, in fact, none better can be found in the
county.
During the
long bleak winters hunting was a favorite pastime. Game was
abundant, but so many hunters came from other places that it
became necessary for the inhabitants to pass a vote not to allow
nonresidents trapping, hounding or laying poison for any
furbearing animal; and still later no man was allowed to hound
game except upon his own premises.
Among the
furbearing animals found here by the settlers were quite a
number of bears, some of which were so bold as to come to the
barns and eat the food put out for the hogs, and nights they
would often prowl around the houses to secure anything left
around the door that would tempt their appetite. Two bears were
killed here by personal encounters. The first was killed by Abel
E. Staples. A large party of men, as was customary in those
days, gathered at John Cook's place to assist him in clearing
his lot of the bushes and stumps, so as to enable him to
cultivate the soil. While so employed, several dogs, which had
accompanied the workmen, began to bark furiously in the forest
near them. Soon, much to the surprise of all, they drove a large
bear into the clearing. The bear made a desperate attempt to
escape by attacking those who surrounded him. At this, Mr.
Staples, using a long stick which he had been using prying
stumps, struck the bear on the head. This only enraged the beast
the more. The second blow, given with tremendous force, split
open the bear's head, and he fell over dead. A long time
subsequent, a bear came out on the shore where John and David
Stinson were working on a boat near their home at the north. One
of the brothers started for the house to get a rifle, while the
other kept watch. Presently the bear began to move towards the
woods, when Mr. Smith seized a broken oar that lay near his
boat, and after a severe battle came off victorious. Several
other bears were killed with firearms. This game was so
persistently hunted that it was entirely exterminated.
There were
also large flocks of seabirds which served as food, and the
feathers were made into beds. Seabirds still come in large
flocks at certain seasons of the year.
There were no
traders then on the island, but supplies were usually laid in
before winter. The mails came occasionally, when a boat went to
the mainland, but there was no office here nor any regular place
to receive the mails.
The war of
1812 made itself felt among the few settlers here, not only in
the depression incident to warfare, but the British cutters
harassed our coasting vessels and captured and detained many of
the fishing vessels, taking from these vessels any man whom they
chose to regard as a British subject and impressing him on board
of an English ship of war. In a similar way the father of Moses
Staples, who came here in 1793, was impressed on board of a
British war ship during the Revolution. He was never heard of
after that, and probably died or was killed while in the
service.
It is related
that while one of the British cutters was near our harbor, a
boat came ashore, and her crew espied several women and girls
returning in a boat from one of the islands where they had been
berrying. The cutter's boat went in pursuit, and soon overtook
the party of frightened women. They, however, did not detain
them, but on leaving them an officer in the boat kissed one of
the young girls. "Go home,'' said he, "and tell your parents
that you have had the honor of being kissed by a British
officer."
In the year
1810, just previous to our second war with Great Britain, an
embargo was laid on flour to prevent it being exported to
England or to the English colonies. Accordingly flour in Canada
brought a very high price, and made smuggling into that country
profitable. So in this year, two brothers named Prudy, who were
Tories, brought a load of flour in a Chebacco boat, and stored
it in the cellar of the "Big House", awaiting a favorable
opportunity to smuggle it into Canada, but some patriotic
citizen, knowing the character and business of the Prudy boys,
notified the customs officer at Deer Isle, who came and, with
the aid of David Smith, took charge of the flour, put it on
board of a vessel and carried it to Deer Isle, where it was
confiscated. The Prudy boys were naturally enraged, especially
with Mr. Smith, whom they accused of betraying them to the
customs officer. One day, meeting Mr. Smith alone, they both
attacked him, but, much to their surprise, this old
Revolutionary hero administered to them a sound thrashing, which
all of that class so richly deserved. Prudy had Mr. Smith
arrested for assault. He was carried to Deer Isle for trial,
and, strangely enough, he came for trial before the very customs
officer who had made the seizure, and by whom Mr. Smith was
discharged on the ground that he was justified in the act as the
means of self defense.
Swan's Island
Plantation was organized in 1834. Previously there had been no
municipal organization, and had been taxed only by the State. In
State and national elections it was classed with Mount Desert,
later with Bluehill, and now with Deer Isle. At present Deer
Isle, Swan's Island and Isle au Haut form one representative
district.
During the
first half century after its settlement, there were no public
schools, but instruction was furnished the young more or less
regularly and supported by private donations. These schools were
kept in the room of some dwelling, and the teacher "boarded
around". The usual price paid the teacher was nine shillings per
week.
The people in
those times seem to have made good use of the advantages which
were offered them, for most of them had a good common school
education. The first schoolhouse was built near the Carrying
Place in 1834. This building was afterwards moved and used in
district No. I until the new schoolhouse was built in 1894. The
schoolhouse on the east side was built soon after. The first
public winter term of school was taught by Miss Sophia Dodge, of
Sedgwick. Among other early teachers were John Adams, Hon.
William H. Taylor, a justice of the supreme judicial court of
Maine, and Danforth P. Marcyes, of Eden. The wages for a winter
teacher was about $14 per month and board, often as low as fifty
cents per week. The island was first divided into the west
district and east district. In 1839, the east district voted to
support school for three months in the summer, and two and a
half months in the winter.
In 1842, the
west district was divided into two other districts - the
southeast district, the line of which was to run between Joseph
Gott and John Gott's house, and the Irish Point district, the
dividing line to run between Abel Lane's and David Smith's
places.
This year the
districts were numbered, west district to be known as No. I,
east district as No. 2, southwest district as No. 3, southeast
district as No. 4. Later, district No. I was again divided; all
north of the Carrying Place to be formed into a new district
known as No. 5; and last, a portion of district No. I was united
to a portion of district No. 2, the union forming district No.
6. The last district, however, was soon abolished. The other
districts remained until all district lines were abolished by
the new school law of 1894.
There were
five principal settlements. The most numerous families were the
Smiths, Stinsons and Kents at the north; the Joyces, Staples,
Torreys and Stockbridges at the east side, the Gotts and
Stanleys in No. I, and the Spragues, Sadlers and Bridges in No.
4. Most of the settlers in each section were related to each
other. And a large percentage of the population of this island
today is descendants of the above named families.
These people,
although surrounded by many disadvantages, have reared a hardy,
industrious, intelligent class of people. A general appearance
of prosperity prevails. The homes are neat and elegantly
furnished. The grounds and lawns are tastefully kept. The roads
are kept in a good condition of repair, with sidewalks built in
two of the villages. Schools have been liberally supported,
offering to the young thirty weeks of instruction in the year.
All schoolbooks are furnished free, so that the poor can enjoy
equal advantages with the wealthy. A new two story schoolhouse
has just been completed, and the schools for the first time
graded (1894).
Seldom has
there been a pauper to call for public charity, and the town is
without debt.
We of the
present day, who now occupy comfortable homes, with all these
advantages, with mails and steamboats that daily connect us with
the neighboring towns, can scarcely realize the great changes
which have taken place for the better within this century.
Source: A History of Swan's Island,
Maine, by H.W. Small, MD, Ellsworth Me, Hancock County
Publishing Company, Printers, 1808
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